Hive of activity

It has been several months now since I wrote in my blog. For that I'm sorry. Why I'm sorry I've no idea as I'm pretty certain that I'm the only person out of 6,500,000,000 people on the planet who actually reads this. Ah, already I've digressed!

Anyway, I'm off work poorly bad (AWWWW). I've got Impetigo which is pretty minging but as I work in education and it is very infectious (the impetigo - not the education) I've been told to stay at home. It's the best illness in the world. You feel spotty and scabby and have to watch that you don't pick bits off yourself but you feel fine and are able to tackle some of the jobs you've been meaning to do for ages so that's a result then!

On the right, you can see the results of what I've been up to thus far this week. Yes, there's some extremely oversized key cheeks there, you're right. How high they look. Don't worry, I've not got an elastic tape-measure. I was playing.

The hawk-eyed readers amongst you will spot what looks like a different MIDI keyboard from the ones I've been using until now. It's absolutely right. I decided the other day that I wanted them all to match, to have no cracks in them and for them to actually have tidy wiring (Ahem) so I bit the bullet and bought four keyboards from Thomann, a German company that I can't recommend enough. They're the best company in the world. Fantastic quality, service, prices, the lot. I got four brand new midi keyboards, including delivery from Germany to the UK (3 days) for £236.00. Bargain or what? Anyway, I ripped them all to pieces so I could just have the keyboard and the midi bits rather than the bells and whistles and the little oompa rhythm section. Now, what you see above is the result of one of the recently gutted keyboards with a very rough-and-ready mock up of what the keyboard setup will look like. Impressive, I agree.

I looked all over to ensure the depth of the manuals would be right. Too deep and it would be too high (as in the picture) and too shallow and there'd not be enough space to get the keyboards in correctly thus forcing me to move each keyboard further back to accommodate. I'd end up stretching further than I need to if I did that. I measured my own (keyboards... dirty buggers), measured one or two other instruments I know and came to the conclusion that the correct height for a 'cheek' is 2.5" or 5cm whichever you prefer. With that in mind, I marked up the oak lengths I'd bought. Once that was done I decided that I wanted to have the cheeks thicker than they currently looked. They were only 1" thick which made them look a bit cheap so I doubled up each edge which made them look MUCH meatier. I'm glad I did that. As you can see to the left the cheeks do look much more butch now they're twice as thick.

You'll have seen lots of pencil marks and a pretty little drawing on the side of the cheek too. Well' I didn't just want a plain edge like most organs have, I like a bit of show. I looked around on the internet to find a design I liked. That took a LONG time as strangely, people don't seem to put close-up shots of the corners of their pipe organ keyboards on the 'web for the world to peruse. Eventually, I found a design that I like. If you look closely above the top bow outwards, there's a tiny step. That is to echo the top of the key so that the key can sit just a couple of millimetres below it and run parallel. How posh, eh?

The design looks a bit fiddly and to be honest it's dead easy. You've just got to be brave enough to trust your eye for detail. I actually got a bit of cardboard, a £2 coin and a £1 coin. I put them both on the card and drew round the £2 above the £1 coin and just followed the line around and ended up with that shape. Here, here's a picture that I hope will help. Also the template is 2.5" high... remember? Thought you did.

So, now I've got my cheeks and, as you can see from the money shot (ho, ho, oo, er) above, there's a step cut out of the bottom. There is but that's only on the inside one. The outside one goes along the entire bottom too (the save level as the foot at the front of the template). The reason is so that the keyboard can slide in on the little MDF base I've made but not told you about so that you'll not see it at all from the front. Clever, eh?

As I don't trust my freehand precision cutting with a jigsaw that's slightly less accurate than a blind man wielding an axe hoping to take the top off his boiled quail's egg, I decided that I'd best get a coping saw. After thinking further on the idea I opted for a scroll saw. I ordered one off eBay which cost me about £75 inc. P&P which I was very pleased with. I'll use it a lot as I'm planning on doing several fretwork projects in the future. Yes, indeed my grandmother is going be be receiving the world's worst attempt at a bit of fretwork on a manky panel that you hang on the wall for her Christmas present and she's going to like it too... or else!

Tomorrow's plan, therefore, is, presuming the saw arrives, to cut out the inside (stepped) cheeks, screw them to the outside cheeks and then cut the detailing for the ends on the scroll saw. Ideally, I'll be able to at least knock up the four keycheeks with maybe one keyboard attached. If I can I'll put up a piccy or two of the setup. I'm determined to get that part finished by the end of next week so I can transplant the new keyboard setup into the bedroom and demote the four keyboards I have been using to the garage in anticipation of a quick journey to eBayland... or maybe two of them can go to work in my office to practice with. We'll see. The former I'd guess. My boss has already told me that he doesn't like my harpsichord that I took in. Damnitt!